What is a seam finish? Sewing terms and definitions

This is a series where I teach you all the sewing terminology you need to know, to learn to speak dressmaker! So let’s talk about what is a seam finish?I remember when I started to learn how to sew one of the most difficult things was learning all the language involved.

All of these strange and weird terms that everyone kept using, I had no idea what they were.

This whole series is brought to you by vintagesewingschool.com, my online sewing school where I help new sewers just like you to learn how to create their own fashion.

So today’s sewing term, that we’re going to discuss is a seam finish. So, let’s talk about what a seam finish is…

My definition of seam finish is

The finish that is applied to the raw edges of the fabric to prevent fraying or unraveling.

So, let’s discuss this.

Now, when you sew a seam you will have what is called the raw edges. These are just the what we call unfinished edges of the fabric, and you’ll notice that they fray. And they’re just going to keep coming apart and if you don’t do a seam finish on these edges, imagine what’s going to happen to this when you wash it!

All your hard work will just literally disintegrate in the washing machine, so you need to put a seam finish on these edges to prevent this fraying from happening, so that you get to actually use your garment for the lifetime it is supposed to have!

Now there are a few different seam finishes that you can do, but I have the three main ones that I think that you should be aware of.

The first one is overlocking

If you have a look under your clothes that you’re wearing right now, guarantee that there is overlocking over the edges of that seam! So, that overlocking you see, is the seam finish there.

Now, this is the most professional finish. And it’s probably the strongest as well and can withstand the harshest of machine washing. That’s why it’s what’s used in most garments that are made commercially.

A special machine is needed to do this finish though, and I do recommend to get an overlocker machine, but often you don’t have one when you start.

So, there are two other ways that you can finish your seams at home without an overlocker …

The zig zag stitch

This is using a zigzag function on your straight stitch machine and is stitched over the edge of the raw edges to prevent fraying.

Here is a tutorial that I’ve made on how to do a zigzag

The pinking shears

So, that’s those little zigzag edges that you might see on vintage garments, they are finished with pinking shears a lot. And I particularly like this finish because it’s nice and neat and it looks really pretty!

So, you might think that the pinking shear doesn’t work so well, but I have an example of a garment from the 1950s. And you can see how that the pinking shear actually withstands the test of time.

It only frays out through those top little triangle parts and not down through the rest of the seam allowance.

Here is a video all about the pinking shear edge

So, a seam finish can be many different techniques, but basically, it is the technique used to cover the raw edges or finish the raw edges of the fabric so that it doesn’t fray or unravel.

Now, if you want to learn even more sewing terms so you can really learn how to speak dressmaker, make sure you watch the rest of this series and subscribe to my Youtube channel for all the wonderful vintage and sewing things that I do with all of these techniques.

So, until next time,

Evelyn x